Wiwan­ni­horn

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J / Stein­ad­ler­rou­te 5b (5a man­da­to­ry)
Franz-Xaver Leig­ge­ner, Bru­no Pfaf­fen and Egon Fel­ler 1976/1982. Reno­va­ted in 2018 by Rena­te and Roland Ker­nen, Stef­fi Irni­ger.
This is the clas­sic rou­te of the Wiwan­ni­horn, cha­rac­te­ri­sed by varied, part­ly also some­what expo­sed wall and slab clim­bing, well secu­red and often clim­bed. The tour should not be under­ta­ken in bad wea­ther con­di­ti­ons as rap­pel­ling isn’t easy in this rou­te.
After the first three pit­ches, fol­low nice pit­ches in the 5th degree in the best rock and expo­sed ambi­ence. After the 8th pitch, it beco­mes much easier again and you fol­low the part­ly expo­sed ridge for about 50 minu­tes to the sum­mit. 4 – 5 hours for the climb.
Descent: Over the west ridge or sou­thwest wall, or the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji.
Equip­ment: 14 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

K / Wi vom Fass 6a (5b+ man­da­to­ry)
Rena­te and Roland Ker­nen 2019
10 pit­ches of beau­ti­ful clim­bing lines in the best-struc­tu­red rock in the upper fifth and a few meters in the sixth degree of dif­fi­cul­ty. Then fol­low the slight­ly expo­sed ridge to the sum­mit. High­ly recom­men­ded clim­bing tour. 4 – 5 hours for the climb.
Descent: Over the west ridge or sou­thwest wall, or the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji.
Equip­ment: 14 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

L / Ver­bor­ge­ne Tän­ze 6b (5c+ man­da­to­ry)
Feli­ci­tas and Egon Fel­ler 2013

This beau­ti­ful clim­bing line has been only dis­co­ve­r­ed recent­ly. The­re­fo­re it got the name which means in Ger­man: hid­den dan­ces. This is a term from the Upper Valais mytho­lo­gy.
The very varied clim­bing on the best rock in the fifth and sixth degree of dif­fi­cul­ty offers inte­res­ting cracks, slabs and inter­sec­tions and is one of the most beau­ti­ful ways to the Wiwan­ni­horn. After clim­bing up the pit­ches fol­lows a tran­si­ti­on on the ridge to the sum­mit for about 45 minu­tes.
Descent: clim­bing down over the west ridge or the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji in the south wall. Rap­pel­ling on the rou­te is not recom­men­ded. The rope can get caught while pul­ling, but it’s pos­si­ble.
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws and 60 m rope. The tour is also good with a 50 m rope. Only in one of the light pit­ches is it not enough, which is not a pro­blem at this level of dif­fi­cul­ty.

Dan­ger note: Do not kick stones in the area of 2nd gra­de. Other­wi­se you end­an­ger clim­bers below in the Stein­ad­ler­rou­te and Wi vom Fass.

Topo from the clim­bing gui­de Wiwan­ni 2020

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