Ridge tra­ver­ses

At Wiwanni West Ridge
At Wiwanni West Ridge, Bietschhorn behind

This post is also available in: Deutsch Fran­çais Ita­lia­no

Wiwan­ni – Augst­kum­men­horn, ridge tra­ver­se 3+

This clas­sic ridge crossing in alpi­ne and expo­sed ter­rain offers impres­si­ve depths and stands out with its uni­que beau­ty. Often the Augst­kum­men ridge is tra­ver­sed after mul­ti-pitch rou­tes such as the Stein­ad­ler rou­te or the Gem­s­tritt rou­te. Also, the Augst­kum­men ridge is often visi­ted by Biets­ch­horn and Mat­ter­horn can­di­da­tes for trai­ning purposes.
In addi­ti­on to good rou­te sel­ec­tion and rope hand­ling, you need some expe­ri­ence in alpi­ne ter­rain to tra­ver­se the ridge. Or sim­ply, a good intui­ti­on. Sin­ce the­re are many natu­ral secu­ri­ty opti­ons, such as rock pin­na­cles, etc, the­re aren’t that many secu­ri­ty bolts.
Rating: 3 +, which does not look that easy on some boulders.
Des­cen­ding from the Wiwan­ni­horn over the west ridge, the first two steep steps are bypas­sed on the side of the bietsch val­ley. The remai­ning obs­ta­cles are usual­ly clim­bed direct­ly up to the Augstkummenhorn.
Time: From the Wiwan­ni­horn sum­mit 3001m to the Augst­kum­men­horn sum­mit 2889m approx. 2 hours.

Con­ti­nue straight ahead on the ridge to the west to climb the small Augst­kum­men­horn. Beau­tiful and expo­sed, but easy climbing.
As an exit pos­si­bi­li­ty abo­ve (north) of the crest bet­ween the small and the lar­ge Augst­kum­men­horn the­re it is a rap­pel pis­te (5 x 25 meters over the pla­tes of the rou­te Männertreu?)
The climb till the small Augst­kum­men­horn offers a pitch in the 4th dif­fi­cul­ty level. Howe­ver, it can be bypas­sed on the left. For the des­cent from the small Augst­kum­men­horn, you fol­low the expo­sed ridge to the west. Alt­hough the­re are some oppor­tu­ni­ties to des­cend on the left, it’s bet­ter to fol­low the ridge to the point whe­re the ridge divi­des into two. Sou­thward the­re are trail tracks along the ridge. Fol­lo­wing this tracks, you reach a kind of crest (next to the Sche­p­fip­fii­ler) and con­ti­nue down the rough, scree ter­rain back to the hut.
You can also cross the Augst­kum­men ridge in the other direc­tion, from west to east. From the sum­mit of the small Augst­kum­men­horn you can rap­pel 25 m (the­re is rap­pel point with a chain).

Ridge crossing From the Wiwan­ni­horn to the Tier­egg­horn and Bietschhorn

This long, wild and adven­tur­ous ridge crossing from the Wiwan­ni­horn over the Chrü­tig­horn, Dübi­horn, Alpil­horn, Tiergg­horn and fur­ther over the sou­the­ast ridge to the Biets­ch­horn is very rare­ly com­mit­ted and is only acces­si­ble to clim­bers with ade­qua­te alpi­ne level and phy­si­cal fit­ness. The­se adven­tur­ous are­as place spe­cial demands on the clim­bers. Pro­tec­tion such as ser­ra­ti­ons and fri­ends or wed­ges you have to attach yours­elf. For clim­bing hall moun­tain gui­des this tour is not sui­ta­ble. Most of the­se peaks may see a visi­tor every 10 or 20 years. A bivouac night is to be plan­ned for the enti­re crossing.
From the sum­mit of Wiwan­ni­horn, des­cend the block ridge in the north to the Wiwan­ni­joch. Here, on loo­se blocks, you bypass a ridge tower on the eas­tern side. Then you cross after the Wiwan­ni­joch into the wes­tern slo­pe of the Chrü­tig­horn and over it up to the expo­sed sum­mit of the Chrü­tig­horns 3020 m. Now fol­low the des­cent and the crossing over the expo­sed ridge to Dübi­grat, Dübi­horn and Alp­ji­ahorn. Here the rock chan­ges into the red Aare-gra­ni­te and the crossing of the Tier­egg­horn offer very beau­tiful and expo­sed clim­bing. The main dif­fi­cul­ties in the ascent to the Tiergg­horn can be bypas­sed on the Balt­schie­der­tal side. Rap­pel­ling is not neces­sa­ry on the des­cent from the Tiergg­horn, it’s easy to climb down. From Tiergg sadd­le to the Sou­the­ast sadd­le it goes up for a long time in a light block climbing.

In the begin­ning, the sub­se­quent ascent of the Biets­ch­horn sou­the­ast ridge offers very dif­fi­cult clim­bing parts in the best rock. After the first distinct belay, do not fol­low the crack with the for­ged bolt on the left, just go up about 2 meters to the right in a slight­ly easier climb. The­re are only litt­le belay­ing pos­si­bi­li­ties. The same on the second ridge tower. After that fol­lows a very expo­sed ridge to the 20 meters rap­pel point. The fol­lo­wing lar­ge over­han­ging tower (mush­room) is bypas­sed at the top to the right.
The indi­vi­du­al peaks from Wiwan­ni to Biets­ch­horn can also be clim­bed direct­ly from Biets­ch­tal or Balt­schie­der Val­ley. Espe­ci­al­ly the tour to the Tiergg­horn has a very inte­res­t­ing ascent from the Balt­schie­der Val­ley over the sou­the­ast ridge and des­cents in direc­tion to the Tiergg sadd­le into the Bietsch Val­ley. This is a gre­at day trip.
For a detail­ed descrip­ti­on, we refer to the alpi­ne gui­de of the Swiss Alpi­ne Club. Ber­ne­se Alps 3.

Topo from the clim­bing gui­de Wiwan­ni 2020
Bietschorn Wiwanni Überschreitung
Scroll to Top