Wiwanni – Augstkummenhorn, ridge traverse 3+
This classic ridge crossing in alpine and exposed terrain offers impressive depths and stands out with its unique beauty. Often the Augstkummen ridge is traversed after multi-pitch routes such as the Steinadler route or the Gemstritt route. Also, the Augstkummen ridge is often visited by Bietschhorn and Matterhorn candidates for training purposes.
In addition to good route selection and rope handling, you need some experience in alpine terrain to traverse the ridge. Or simply, a good intuition. Since there are many natural security options, such as rock pinnacles, etc, there aren’t that many security bolts.
Rating: 3 +, which does not look that easy on some boulders.
Descending from the Wiwannihorn over the west ridge, the first two steep steps are bypassed on the side of the bietsch valley. The remaining obstacles are usually climbed directly up to the Augstkummenhorn.
Time: From the Wiwannihorn summit 3001m to the Augstkummenhorn summit 2889m approx. 2 hours.
Continue straight ahead on the ridge to the west to climb the small Augstkummenhorn. Beautiful and exposed, but easy climbing.
As an exit possibility above (north) of the crest between the small and the large Augstkummenhorn there it is a rappel piste (5 x 25 meters over the plates of the route Männertreu?)
The climb till the small Augstkummenhorn offers a pitch in the 4th difficulty level. However, it can be bypassed on the left. For the descent from the small Augstkummenhorn, you follow the exposed ridge to the west. Although there are some opportunities to descend on the left, it’s better to follow the ridge to the point where the ridge divides into two. Southward there are trail tracks along the ridge. Following this tracks, you reach a kind of crest (next to the Schepfipfiiler) and continue down the rough, scree terrain back to the hut.
You can also cross the Augstkummen ridge in the other direction, from west to east. From the summit of the small Augstkummenhorn you can rappel 25 m (there is rappel point with a chain).
Ridge crossing From the Wiwannihorn to the Tieregghorn and Bietschhorn
This long, wild and adventurous ridge crossing from the Wiwannihorn over the Chrütighorn, Dübihorn, Alpilhorn, Tiergghorn and further over the southeast ridge to the Bietschhorn is very rarely committed and is only accessible to climbers with adequate alpine level and physical fitness. These adventurous areas place special demands on the climbers. Protection such as serrations and friends or wedges you have to attach yourself. For climbing hall mountain guides this tour is not suitable. Most of these peaks may see a visitor every 10 or 20 years. A bivouac night is to be planned for the entire crossing.
From the summit of Wiwannihorn, descend the block ridge in the north to the Wiwannijoch. Here, on loose blocks, you bypass a ridge tower on the eastern side. Then you cross after the Wiwannijoch into the western slope of the Chrütighorn and over it up to the exposed summit of the Chrütighorns 3020 m. Now follow the descent and the crossing over the exposed ridge to Dübigrat, Dübihorn and Alpjiahorn. Here the rock changes into the red Aare-granite and the crossing of the Tieregghorn offer very beautiful and exposed climbing. The main difficulties in the ascent to the Tiergghorn can be bypassed on the Baltschiedertal side. Rappelling is not necessary on the descent from the Tiergghorn, it’s easy to climb down. From Tiergg saddle to the Southeast saddle it goes up for a long time in a light block climbing.
In the beginning, the subsequent ascent of the Bietschhorn southeast ridge offers very difficult climbing parts in the best rock. After the first distinct belay, do not follow the crack with the forged bolt on the left, just go up about 2 meters to the right in a slightly easier climb. There are only little belaying possibilities. The same on the second ridge tower. After that follows a very exposed ridge to the 20 meters rappel point. The following large overhanging tower (mushroom) is bypassed at the top to the right.
The individual peaks from Wiwanni to Bietschhorn can also be climbed directly from Bietschtal or Baltschieder Valley. Especially the tour to the Tiergghorn has a very interesting ascent from the Baltschieder Valley over the southeast ridge and descents in direction to the Tiergg saddle into the Bietsch Valley. This is a great day trip.
For a detailed description, we refer to the alpine guide of the Swiss Alpine Club. Bernese Alps 3.