Ost­grat 5b (4c obl.)

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Rebec­ca Bisig, Hans Z’Brun, Egon Fel­ler 2004.
The east ridge offers a beau­ti­ful pan­or­amic ascent to the Wiwan­ni­horn. This is the lon­gest climb on the Wiwan­ni­horn. With 17 pit­ches high abo­ve the Balt­schie­der Val­ley, it offers varied clim­bing and is very well equip­ped. In the begin­ning, the­re are some lichens, but the hig­her you get, the more beau­ti­ful the clim­bing beco­mes. It’s more a moun­tain hike and block clim­bing than an actu­al sport clim­bing rou­te. The dif­fi­cult pit­ches rela­te to some short indi­vi­du­al points in the first pit­ches.
The big edel­weiss bou­quets and a small larch tree at 2972.3 m are brea­king records. After the 8th pitch, don’t miss out on the cros­sing to the left to a sur­pri­sin­gly nice crack.
In ear­ly sum­mer, the approach over the steep firn fiel­ds can be very tri­cky.
Descent: Over the west ridge or sou­thwest wall. Rap­pel­ling over the east ridge is not recom­men­ded, becau­se the rope can get caught in the boul­ders when pul­ling the robe.
Time: 4 – 6 hours from the hut to the sum­mit.
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope and alpi­ne equip­ment depen­ding on the con­di­ti­ons.
Topo from the clim­bing gui­de Wiwan­ni 2020

 

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