Dübi­grat

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A / Nacht­zug nach Lis­sa­bon 6b (6a+ man­da­to­ry)
Süd­wand Dübi­grat P. 2999, 16 SL, 800 clim­bing meters
First ascent Roland Ker­nen and San­dro Per­ren 2011

“If it is, that we can only live a small part of what is in us — what hap­pens to the rest?” This quo­te comes from the book “Nacht­zug nach Lis­sa­bon” which means in Eng­lish “Night train to Lis­bon” (by Pas­cal Mer­cier), this name was cho­sen after clim­bing the lon­gest and one of the most spec­ta­cu­lar rou­tes ser­ved in the Upper Valais. Roland Ker­nen and San­dro Per­ren have done the first ascent of the 800 m long adven­ture tour on 11./12. August 2011. A very long and deman­ding clim­bing tour for enthu­si­asts with the appro­pria­te clim­bing level.

SPECIAL: At the Risigra­ben at the rift by the ent­ran­ce the­re is often rock­fall. If the­re is still snow, an ice axe is recom­men­ded. The tour can only be done in safe wea­ther con­di­ti­ons. The access to the rou­te is very deman­ding and goes through expo­sed ter­rain.

Safe­guar­ding: With 120 inter­me­dia­te bolts + belays the clim­bing rou­te is well equip­ped. Howe­ver, the­re are qui­te lar­ge bolt inter­vals pos­si­ble and it’s hard to place addi­tio­nal belay opti­ons.

Equip­ment: 50 meters dou­ble rope and 10 quick-draws

Accent: 2 hours from Wiwan­ni­hut

Deman­ding access in most­ly track­less and very expo­sed ter­rain. You lea­ve the access to the Wiwan­ni­horn east ridge at a rock ledge just befo­re the ent­ran­ce and then descent
below the east ridge until you reach a steep ter­rain, which falls to the north. Descend west (gutter/rift) to the second blue mark. Now you cross into the steep ter­rain whe­re the­re are path traces and some bolts II-III. At the last bolt, you descend (down to fur­ther bolts) and then fol­low the blue marks and bolts to the north. Next, you descend tra­ver­sing the grass field and cross into the lower third of the steep ter­rain into the rift (bolts, II-III). Con­ti­nue clim­bing through the rift and cross the gras­sy area and rocks to the north. Now you are on the grass field. You cross it to the north end. On the ent­ry for the cros­sing through the Wiwan­ni north face the­re a blue dot mark. From the­re you fol­low cha­mois traces (blue mar­kings and bolts). The path­fin­ding in this area is not easy. First, you stay up on the ledge and fol­low it, then you descend over a small step. Now you fol­low ascen­ding and descen­ding cha­mois path led­ges up until the Risigra­ben. After the deli­ca­te tra­ver­se of the Risigra­ben, you cross through the grass to the next rocky boul­der below and then you rise to the north for about 50m. The ent­ran­ce is at the height of a small gras­sy rock belay. For the descent, we recom­mend to rap­pel or to tra­ver­se to the Wiwan­ni­horn and descent on the nor­mal rou­te. For the ent­i­re rou­te, it takes 12–15 hours (6–8 hours for the wall) 

Topo aus Klet­ter­füh­rer Wiwan­ni 2020

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