A / Nachtzug nach Lissabon 6b (6a+ mandatory)
Südwand Dübigrat P. 2999, 16 SL, 800 climbing meters
First ascent Roland Kernen and Sandro Perren 2011
“If it is, that we can only live a small part of what is in us — what happens to the rest?” This quote comes from the book “Nachtzug nach Lissabon” which means in English “Night train to Lisbon” (by Pascal Mercier), this name was chosen after climbing the longest and one of the most spectacular routes served in the Upper Valais. Roland Kernen and Sandro Perren have done the first ascent of the 800 m long adventure tour on 11./12. August 2011. A very long and demanding climbing tour for enthusiasts with the appropriate climbing level.
SPECIAL: At the Risigraben at the rift by the entrance there is often rockfall. If there is still snow, an ice axe is recommended. The tour can only be done in safe weather conditions. The access to the route is very demanding and goes through exposed terrain.
Safeguarding: With 120 intermediate bolts + belays the climbing route is well equipped. However, there are quite large bolt intervals possible and it’s hard to place additional belay options.
Equipment: 50 meters double rope and 10 quick-draws
Accent: 2 hours from Wiwannihut
Demanding access in mostly trackless and very exposed terrain. You leave the access to the Wiwannihorn east ridge at a rock ledge just before the entrance and then descent
below the east ridge until you reach a steep terrain, which falls to the north. Descend west (gutter/rift) to the second blue mark. Now you cross into the steep terrain where there are path traces and some bolts II-III. At the last bolt, you descend (down to further bolts) and then follow the blue marks and bolts to the north. Next, you descend traversing the grass field and cross into the lower third of the steep terrain into the rift (bolts, II-III). Continue climbing through the rift and cross the grassy area and rocks to the north. Now you are on the grass field. You cross it to the north end. On the entry for the crossing through the Wiwanni north face there a blue dot mark. From there you follow chamois traces (blue markings and bolts). The pathfinding in this area is not easy. First, you stay up on the ledge and follow it, then you descend over a small step. Now you follow ascending and descending chamois path ledges up until the Risigraben. After the delicate traverse of the Risigraben, you cross through the grass to the next rocky boulder below and then you rise to the north for about 50m. The entrance is at the height of a small grassy rock belay. For the descent, we recommend to rappel or to traverse to the Wiwannihorn and descent on the normal route. For the entire route, it takes 12–15 hours (6–8 hours for the wall)
Topo aus Kletterführer Wiwanni 2020