Gross Augstkum­men­horn

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Often visi­ted clim­bing sum­mit with varied rou­tes. In ear­ly sum­mer, the steep firn fiel­ds can be tri­cky to get to the access. Good foot­we­ar is high­ly recom­men­ded.

2 / Cros­sing the ridge Wiwan­ni – Augstkum­men­horn 3+
Dura­ti­on: approx. 2 hours

A / Män­ner­treu? 5c (5a man­da­to­ry)
Esther Rasch­le, Josi Flu­rin 2001
This 5 pitch long beau­ti­ful slab clim­bing rou­te is in the best rock, well equip­ped and recom­men­ded.
The rou­te is often used as a rap­pel­ling slo­pe for the descent from the Augstkum­men­horn.
Descent: rap­pel­ling over the rou­te, 5 x 25 m
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

B / Süd­wand Plat­te 6a (5b man­da­to­ry)
Peter Spi­ro, Egon Fel­ler 1990
Varied slab and wall clim­bing. From the fourth pitch, the­re are two pos­si­ble pit­ches.
Descent: from the first ridge tower it takes about 10 minu­tes to the rap­pel­ling point of the rou­te Män­ner­treu? Or fur­ther down the­re is the cros­sing to Augstkum­men sum­mit and Wiwan­ni­horn
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

C / Im Licht und Schat­ten 6b (6a man­da­to­ry)
Feli­ci­tas and Egon Fel­ler 2017
Exci­ting climb with tri­cky, expo­sed, final pitch. Very well secu­red.
Descent: Rap­pel­ling on the rou­te is not recom­men­ded. The rope can get caught in the rocks. The­re­fo­re it is recom­men­ded to rap­pel over the rou­te Män­ner­treu? or Süd­wand­plat­te.
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

D / Sil­ber­man­tel 5b + (5a man­da­to­ry)
Ani­ta Wes­pi, Egon Fel­ler 1997. Reno­va­ted by Rena­te and Roland Ker­nen, Ste­fan Irni­ger 2017.
Recom­men­ded, varied slab clim­bing with some crack-lines in a direct line to the sum­mit. In the first pitch at 2800 meters abo­ve sea level, you can admi­re the second high-lying tree in Cen­tral Euro­pe (it’s a small larch).
Descent: rap­pel­ling with dou­ble rope if pos­si­ble. It is bet­ter, howe­ver, to descend over the Augstkum­men ridge to the west ridge. Or over the rou­te Män­ner­treu? rap­pel: 5 x 25 m
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

E / Stein­bock 6b (6a man­da­to­ry)
Ama­dee Schmidt, Egon Fel­ler 1997
Slab and wall clim­bing in the best rock. In this rou­te, good foot­work is an advan­ta­ge. Well secu­red.
Descent: Rap­pel­ling
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

F / Flie­gen­pilz 6b (6a man­da­to­ry)
Ama­dee Schmid, Rue­du Kel­ler­hals, Egon Fel­ler 1997
This rou­te is a vari­ant wit­hin the Stein­bock rou­te after the third pitch it lies on the right, a steep slab. Ama­zing slab and face clim­bing in the best rock. Well secu­red.
Descent: Rap­pel­ling over the rou­te Stein­bock
Equip­ment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

G / Stein­gizz 5a+ (5a man­da­to­ry)
Mar­tin Hey­nen, Peter Tresch 2008
Varied slab and face clim­bing on good rock. The short pit­ches are ide­al as an intro­duc­tion to mul­ti-pitch clim­bing. The rou­te is well secu­red. High­ly recom­men­ded as access to the Augstkum­men ridge with a sub­se­quent tra­ver­se.
Descent: Descent via the rou­te or cros­sing the ridge.
Rating: a short crux point 5a. The rest is most­ly in the 4th level of dif­fi­cul­ty.
Equip­ment: 10 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

H / Spi­ri­to (di) Vino 5c+ (5b man­da­to­ry)
Mario Tra­p­let­ti, Peter Stu­cky, Egon Fel­ler 2019
After the second pitch of the rou­te Stei­gizz, this rou­te leads over a ledge direct­ly to the right into a striking inter­sec­tion. Fol­lo­wed up by beau­ti­ful enjoya­ble clim­bing pit­ches in the best rock, each 25 meters until you reach the ridge.
Descent: Rap­pel­ling on the near­by rou­te Kris­tall or across the east ridge.
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

I / Frau­en­schuh 4b (Var. 6a)
Bru­no Leig­ge­ner, Karin Auf­den­blat­ten, Ama­dee Schmid, Egon Fel­ler 1995
Very nice slab and face clim­bing in the best rock. After this rou­te, many peop­le extend their tour to the Augstkum­men sum­mits.
Descent: rap­pel­ling on the rou­te is pos­si­ble. For ridge clim­bers, howe­ver, it is easier to descend over the ridge in the direc­tion to the Wiwan­ni­horn and then climb or rap­pel down to the val­ley bet­ween Wiwan­ni­horn and Augstkum­men­horn.
Rating: 4b. In the fourth pitch, the­re is an alter­na­ti­ve pitch on the left, that offers a steep slab with a small over­hang in the dif­fi­cul­ty level of 6a.
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope.

K / Kris­tall 5c (5a man­da­to­ry)
Rebec­ca Bisig, Egon Fel­ler 2004
Very nice slab clim­bing in the best rock. The crux point in the 2nd pitch pro­vi­des beau­ti­ful wall clim­bing.
Descent: rap­pel­ling on the rou­te is pos­si­ble. For ridge clim­bers, howe­ver, it is easier to descend over the ridge towards Wiwan­ni­horn and then descend to the val­ley bet­ween Wiwan­ni­horn and Augstkum­men­horn or rap­pel.
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

Topo from the clim­bing gui­de Wiwan­ni 2020

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