Wiwan­ni Süd­west­wand

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A / Nor­mal ascent or descent via the west ridge, 2  – 3
Easy clim­bing in alpi­ne ter­rain. To secu­re natu­ral tools like twi­ning your rope around rocks can be used. For the dif­fi­cult parts, the­re are secu­ri­ty bolts. The west ridge is also often used to descent from the Wiwan­ni sum­mit. For the rap­pel, you need 2 x 20 meters from the west ridge.
Equip­ment: 50 meters rope to rap­pel

L / Nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji, 2b – 3 (part­ly gras­sy)
Edmund von Fel­len­berg and hunt­s­man Johann Schmid 1885
Easy varied clim­bing. Access on the left of the water­fall. Also often used as a descent rou­te, but is not set up to rap­pel. It’s recom­men­ded to descent by clim­bing down. The­re are various secu­ri­ty bolts atta­ched. Fol­low the blue marks. The ent­ran­ce is on the left side of the water­fall, at a strikin­gly beau­ti­ful white quart­zi­te block.

B / Rata­tui 5a
Dani­el and Hans-Chris­ti­an Leig­ge­ner 1993
Beau­ti­ful well-secu­red slab clim­bing on very good rock.
Descent: Can be used as a rap­pel­ling slo­pe from the west ridge 2 x 20 m.
Equip­ment: 7 quick-draws, 50 meters rope

C / Uber du Buck 4c
Rena­te and Roland Ker­nen 2017
Beau­ti­ful varied clim­bing on very good rock.
Descent: Pos­si­bi­li­ty to rap­pel. Be care­ful when rap­pel­ling, One rope length is 30 meters long!
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 60 m rope

D / In du Hick 4c
Egon Fel­ler 2013
Beau­ti­ful varied clim­bing on the best rock.
Descent: Pos­si­bi­li­ty to rap­pel
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 m rope

E / Im Chlack 4b
Egon Fel­ler 2013
Beau­ti­ful varied clim­bing on the best rock.
Descent: Pos­si­bi­li­ty to rap­pel
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 m rope

F / Ana­h­arr 5c (5b man­da­to­ry)
Egon Fel­ler 2013
Beau­ti­ful varied clim­bing.
Descent: Pos­si­bi­li­ty to rap­pel or descent via the west ridge
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 m rope

G / Papil­lon 5b (4b man­da­to­ry)
Rebec­ca Bisig, Fran­zis­ka and Egon Fel­ler 2004
Beau­ti­ful varied clim­bing. Popu­lar rou­te. The crux 5b can be bypas­sed on the left.
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 m rope

H / Gem­s­tritt 4c+
Eli­sa­beth Mein­herz, Egon Fel­ler 1994. Rebol­tet in 2015 by Rena­te and Roland Ker­nen, Egon Fel­ler.
Very nice, varied clim­bing in good rock. Very popu­lar.
Descent: Over the west ridge. Rap­pel­ling over the rou­te is not recom­men­ded.
Equip­ment: 8 quick-draws, 50 m rope

J / Genepi 6a (5c A0 man­da­to­ry)
Andre­as von Känel, Egon Fel­ler 2000
Varied clim­bing in most­ly good rock. Very expo­sed last part.
Descent: Rap­pe­ling ist pos­si­ble. Bet­ter clim­bing down the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji.
Equip­ment: 7 quick-draws, 50 m rope

K / Edel­weiss 6a+ (5c+ A0 man­da­to­ry)
Hans­wal­ter Hir­zel, Egon Fel­ler 1988
Varied clim­bing in pret­ty good rock. The last pitch meets Rou­te Genepi.
Descent: Rap­pel is pos­si­ble on the Rou­te Genepi, or bet­ter clim­bing down the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji.
Equip­ment: 7 quick-draws, 50 m rope

M / Wol­per­din­ger-Weg 6a+ (5b man­da­to­ry)
Edi Bru­chez, Egon Fel­ler 2010
Right at the ent­ran­ce to the nor­mal rou­te, it goes direct­ly up.
Descent: Rap­pel is not recom­men­ded. Clim­bing down the nor­mal rou­te Tritt­ji.
Equip­ment: 10 quick-draws, 50 m rope

Topo from the clim­bing gui­de Wiwan­ni 2020

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