Klein Augstkummenhorn
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1 / West Ridge, Normal route and descent route, 2+ exposed alpine terrain
To the west summit, it is like a hike on trails with some blocks that are fairly easy to cross. From the west summit to the main summit you follow the exposed ridge with the impressive panoramic view into the Bietsch Valley. Here are several security bolts attached for the more exposed parts.
Easy, varied, but quite exposed climbing. Often used as a descent route, it is not set up for rappelling.
Time: about 1.5 hours from the hut to the summit
Equipment: 2 – 3 quick-draws, short rope.
A / Salamander 5a (4c mandatory)
Rebecca Bisig, Egon Feller 2002
Very nice varied ledge and wall climbing in the 4th-5th difficulty level. Very well secured and often climbed.
Descent: Over the west ridge (normal route); or the route is set up for rappelling. 8 x 25 m or just 4 x 50 m. Or abseil down the abseiling piste directly from the summit: 7 x 25 m.
Time: 3 hours for the ascent from the hut to the summit.
Equipment: 10 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
B / Enzian 5a (4b mandatory)
Bruno Leiggener, Egon Feller 1994
Beautiful, varied, recommended and therefore a very popular route. The slabs are soon dry after rain.
Descent: like route A, Salamander
Time: 3 hours for the ascent from the hut to the summit.
Equipment: 10 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
C / Schwarznase 5a
Judith Wälti, Egon Feller 2009
Very beautiful, varied ledge and wall climbing in the 4th and 5th degree. Very well secured.
Descent: like route A, Salamander
Time: 3 hours ascent from the hut to the summit.
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
D / Fux 6c+
Egon Feller 2000
22 meters overhanging wall climbing in the best rock. The route is harder than it looks.
Descent: rappelling over the route
Equipment: 10 quick-draws, 50 meters rope
E / Karetsch 7b
Daniel Leiggener, Thomas Karrer 1995
The 11 meters long, the overhanging core of the route begins in the second pitch.
Descent: rappelling over the route
Equipment: 12 quick-draws, 50 meters rope.
F / Geissfuess 5b+
Simon Schmid, Martin Heynen, Judith Wälti, Egon Feller 2009
Exciting varied climbing tour. The first pitch can also be reached via the route Karetsch. The crux is the crossing within the second pitch.
Descent: like route A, Salamander
Time: 3 hours for the ascent from the hut to the summit
Equipment: 8 quick-draws, 50 meters rope.
Note: The small Augstkummenhorn also can be reached with touring skis. The descent on the steep slopes through the gorge on the Leiggernstrasse to Ausserberg is very unique.
Topo from the climbing guide Wiwanni 2022
