{"id":2617,"date":"2020-06-04T01:06:18","date_gmt":"2020-06-04T01:06:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wl1www392.webland.ch\/wordpress\/wiwanni\/dubigrat\/"},"modified":"2024-03-16T20:18:11","modified_gmt":"2024-03-16T18:18:11","slug":"duebigrat","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.wiwanni.ch\/en\/duebigrat\/","title":{"rendered":"D\u00fcbi\u00adgrat"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"D\u00fcbigrat\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00fcbi\u00adgrat<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This post is also available in: \n Deutsch<\/span><\/a><\/span> Fran\u00ad\u00e7ais<\/span><\/a><\/span> Ita\u00adlia\u00adno<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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A \/ Nacht\u00adzug nach Lis\u00adsa\u00adbon 6b (6a+ mandatory)
\n<\/strong>S\u00fcd\u00adwand D\u00fcbi\u00adgrat P. 2999, 16 SL, 800 clim\u00adbing meters
\n<\/strong>First ascent Roland Ker\u00adnen and San\u00addro Per\u00adren 2011<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cIf it is, that we can only live a small part of what is in us \u2014 what hap\u00adpens to the rest?\u201d This quo\u00adte comes from the book \u201cNacht\u00adzug nach Lis\u00adsa\u00adbon\u201d which means in Eng\u00adlish \u201cNight train to Lis\u00adbon\u201d (by Pas\u00adcal Mer\u00adcier), this name was cho\u00adsen after clim\u00adbing the lon\u00adgest and one of the most spec\u00adta\u00adcu\u00adlar rou\u00adtes ser\u00adved in the Upper Valais. Roland Ker\u00adnen and San\u00addro Per\u00adren have done the first ascent of the 800 m long adven\u00adture tour on 11.\/12. August 2011. A very long and deman\u00adding clim\u00adbing tour for enthu\u00adsi\u00adasts with the appro\u00adpria\u00adte clim\u00adbing level.<\/p>\n

SPECIAL: At the Risig\u00adra\u00adben at the rift by the ent\u00adrance the\u00adre is often rock\u00adfall. If the\u00adre is still snow, an ice axe is recom\u00admen\u00added. The tour can only be done in safe wea\u00adther con\u00addi\u00adti\u00adons. The access to the rou\u00adte is very deman\u00adding and goes through expo\u00adsed terrain.<\/p>\n

Safe\u00adguar\u00adding: With 120 inter\u00adme\u00addia\u00adte bolts and belays the clim\u00adbing rou\u00adte is well equip\u00adped. Howe\u00adver, the\u00adre are quite lar\u00adge bolt inter\u00advals pos\u00adsi\u00adble and it\u2019s hard to place addi\u00adtio\u00adnal belay options.<\/p>\n

Equip\u00adment: 50 meters dou\u00adble rope and 10 quick-draws<\/p>\n

Accent: 2 hours from Wiwannihut<\/p>\n

Deman\u00adding access in most\u00adly track\u00adless and very expo\u00adsed ter\u00adrain. You lea\u00adve the access to the Wiwan\u00adni\u00adhorn east ridge at a rock ledge just befo\u00adre the ent\u00adrance and then descent
\nbelow the east ridge until you reach a steep ter\u00adrain, which falls to the north. Des\u00adcend west (gutter\/rift) to the second blue mark. Now you cross into the steep ter\u00adrain whe\u00adre the\u00adre are path traces and some bolts, II\u2013III. At the last bolt, you des\u00adcend (down to fur\u00adther bolts) and then fol\u00adlow the blue marks and bolts to the north. Next, you des\u00adcend tra\u00adver\u00adsing the grass field and cross into the lower third of the steep ter\u00adrain into the rift (bolts, II-III). Con\u00adti\u00adnue clim\u00adbing through the rift and cross the gras\u00adsy area and rocks to the north. Now you are on the grass field. You cross it to the north end. On the ent\u00adry for the crossing through the Wiwan\u00adni north face the\u00adre a blue dot mark. From the\u00adre you fol\u00adlow cha\u00admois traces (blue mar\u00adkings and bolts). The path\u00adfin\u00adding in this area is not easy. First, you stay up on the ledge and fol\u00adlow it, then you des\u00adcend over a small step. Now you fol\u00adlow ascen\u00adding and des\u00adcen\u00adding cha\u00admois path led\u00adges up until the Risig\u00adra\u00adben. After the deli\u00adca\u00adte tra\u00adver\u00adse of the Risig\u00adra\u00adben, you cross through the grass to the next rocky bould\u00ader below and then you rise to the north for about 50 m. The ent\u00adrance is at the height of a small gras\u00adsy rock belay. For the des\u00adcent, we recom\u00admend to rap\u00adpel or to tra\u00adver\u00adse to the Wiwan\u00adni\u00adhorn and des\u00adcent on the nor\u00admal rou\u00adte. For the enti\u00adre rou\u00adte, it takes 12\u201315 hours (6\u20138 hours for the wall) <\/strong><\/p>\n

Topo aus Klet\u00adter\u00adf\u00fch\u00adrer Wiwan\u00adni 2022<\/em><\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Sec\u00adtors<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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